This weekend is all about basting. I’ve begun the construction of Brian’s doublet by basting the interlining layer to the exterior wool instead of pinning, per The Modern Maker.

Brian wants to be able to wear this doublet during rapier combat without maile underneath. As I have concerns that the weight of these layers will not pass the rapier punch test as is, I’ve begun considering options for adapting if that is the case. While rewatching the Stitch in Time episode in which the Tudor Tailor’s Ninya Mikhaila recreated the Black Prince’s padded jupon last night, I determined that it’s not possible to pad this one to increase its resistance, as Ninya estimated that padding and quilting requires an additional 10% increase in the size of the pattern piece. A quick discussion today with Arianna suggests that if needed, I’ll be adding an extra layer of interlining if that remains a concern once I’ve pad stitched the body pieces. If needed, I can also reinforce the shirt, but I hope to not need to add a special shirt to complicate his dressing. I will test some fabric remnants soon with Mistress Arianna so I can decide what needs happen.

Today was spent helping friends work on clothing for their upcoming reign, and while there, I was discussing my pending dress project with Mistress Guiliana and Mistress Arianna. Both were encouraging, and Arianna sent me home with a booklet to read on constructing the sotanna. The booklet is made by Margo Anderson to accompany her Italian Renaissance Lady’s Wardrobe Pattern, and while a modern source, reviewing it should help me confirm some of my understanding of how the pieces of this garment are meant to come together. The section on sleeve poof construction options looks particularly useful as I begin planning the decorative elements to be incorporated into my gown.